The Substance
Beauty, Mourning and Transformation in Cinema
The Substance: Beauty, Mourning and Transformation in Cinema
The Substance, directed by Coralie Fargeat, has not only captured the attention of the public for its social criticism and its innovative use of artistic makeup, but also for the behind-the-scenes stories that marked its production. From the unexpected loss of a legendary actor to the physical challenges faced by the cast, this film is much more than a story of horror and beauty. But what inspired Fargeat to create this bold work and what message does he seek to convey?
The Loss of Ray Liotta: An Unforgettable Legacy
Ray Liotta, known for his iconic role in Goodfellas and his acting versatility, was ready to play a crucial role in The Substance. However, his tragic death in May 2022 left the production team with the difficult task of reconfiguring the cast.
This event deeply marked the production of the film, as Liotta was admired for his ability to give life to complex and nuanced characters. His absence was a reminder of the fragility of life and how art can be a lasting tribute to those who leave us.
Finally, the role was reassigned to another talented actor, although many fans still wonder what Liotta’s interpretation would have been like. This change reflects how the film industry must adapt to unforeseen circumstances without losing sight of the essence of the work.
Margaret Qualley: Criticisms and Reflections on her Figure and Ballet
Margaret Qualley, known for her role in The Substance, faced criticism related to her figure and her training in ballet. Although some considered it “too perfect” to represent an idealized version of youth, this perception hides a history of sacrifices and personal challenges. Since she was a child, Qualley dreamed of being a professional dancer and studied at prestigious institutions such as the North Carolina School of the Arts and the American Ballet Theatre. However, the strict physical expectations of the ballet industry made her lose job opportunities, which eventually led her to abandon her dream of being a dancer.
Despite this setback, Qualley found a new passion in acting, where he has managed to stand out thanks to his versatility and talent. His ballet training allowed him to incorporate elegant and graceful movements into his interpretation in The Substance. In interviews, he explained that he used ballet techniques to convey the duality of his character: a mixture of youthful innocence and supernatural confidence. This approach not only impressed critics, but also demonstrated how their previous experiences can enrich their art.
Although he lost his first big dream due to unfair standards, he managed to transform that failure into a new opportunity by venturing into acting. Today, his career reflects how difficult experiences can become powerful tools for success. Qualley faced criticism of his figure with dignity, showing that even broken dreams can give way to new goals.
Inspirations Behind The Substance
Coralie Fargeat, known for her striking visual style and her ability to mix genres, was inspired by film classics that explore human identity and social marginalization. Among his references are films such as The Elephant Man (1980), which addresses the alienation caused by physical appearance, and The Shining (1980), whose disturbing atmosphere and exploration of psychological decomposition influenced how The Substance uses horror to unravel universal themes such as self-acceptance and social pressure.
In addition, Fargeat has mentioned that his initial idea came from observing how the entertainment industry treats older women, especially in Hollywood. The director wanted to create a biting satire about the “beauty dictatorship” and how women are discarded when they no longer meet the youth standards imposed by a society obsessed with perfection.
The Substance’s Message
Through its visceral and provocative plot, The Substance seeks to convey a powerful message: true beauty is not in youth or physical perfection, but in authenticity and self-acceptance. The film harshly criticizes the culture of social networks, where the personal image has become a commodity and people are constantly judged by their appearance.
Elizabeth Sparkle, played by Demi Moore, is a reflection of this modern obsession with youth. Her decision to use The Substance to create a younger version of herself symbolizes the internal struggle of many women who face the pressure of remaining “relevant” in a superficial society. However, the film also explores the devastating consequences of pursuing this impossible idealization, showing how it can lead to isolation, self-destruction and loss of identity.
Fargeat uses elements of body horror to underline these themes, turning physical transformation into a visual metaphor for emotional and psychological deterioration. The grotesque scenes not only seek to impact the viewer, but also make him reflect on the beauty standards that consume women as if they were disposable products.
The Masters of Makeup: The Artists Behind The Substance
The Substance’s makeup and hairdressing team was recognized with the Oscar for Best Makeup and Hairstyle, a historic achievement that highlights the meticulous work of Pierre-Olivier Persin, Stéphanie Guillon and Marilyne Scarselli.
Next, we delve into who these artists are, their careers and the challenges they faced during filming.
Historical Recognition: The Oscar for Best Makeup and Hairdressing
The joint work of Persin, Guillon and Scarselli was rewarded with the Oscar for Best Makeup and Hairstyle, an achievement that highlights the importance of behind-the-scenes art in creating unforgettable cinematic experiences.This award not only recognizes his technical talent, but also his ability to tell stories through makeup and hairdressing.
PIERRE-OLIVIER PERSIN: THE VISIONARY OF PRACTICAL MAKEUP
With more than 20 years of experience in the film industry, Pierre-Olivier Persin is widely recognized for his ability to combine practical effects with impactful visual narratives. Before working on The Substance, Persin collaborated on projects such as Raw (2016) and Titane (2021), both films known for their visceral and provocative aesthetics.
For The Substance, Persin faced the challenge of creating prostheses and makeup that were not only visually stunning, but also reflected the emotional transformation of the characters. His long working days included designing personalized pieces for Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley, making sure that every detail was consistent with the film’s narrative.
One of the biggest challenges was to balance realism with surrealism, especially in the scenes where Elizabeth’s body begins to deteriorate. Persin explained in interviews that he had to work closely with dermatologists to minimize the physical impact on the actresses, who spent up to 6 hours a day on makeup.
STÉPHANIE GUILLON: THE MAGIC OF THE CINEMATOGRAPHIC HAIRDRESSING
Stéphanie Guillon is a renowned hairdresser whose work has been acclaimed in European and international productions. Known for her detail-oriented approach and her ability to adapt hairstyles to different eras and styles, Guillon played a crucial role in creating the duality between the two versions of Elisabeth Sparkle.
During filming, Guillon faced the challenge of designing hairstyles that reflected both Demi Moore’s refined elegance and Margaret Qualley’s youthful freshness. In addition, he had to work with personalized extensions and wigs to ensure that the look changes were convincing and fluid.
Guillon also mentioned that one of the biggest difficulties was maintaining the consistency of the design over long days of filming, especially when the actresses had to quickly change their appearance between scenes.
MARILYNE SCARSELLI: THE INNOVATOR OF PROSTHESIS AND SPECIAL EFFECTS
Marilyne Scarselli is an expert in prosthetics and practical special effects, recognized for her work in horror and science fiction films. His contribution to The Substance was instrumental in giving life to the most grotesque and disturbing scenes of the film.
Scarselli worked hand in hand with Persin to design prostheses that represented Elizabeth’s physical deterioration, from small imperfections to extreme transformations that left viewers breathless. However, this process was not without challenges. According to Margaret Qualley, the prostheses used in her character caused her skin problems that persisted even after filming.
Despite these difficulties, Scarselli managed to create pieces that were not only visually impressive, but also functional for the actresses. His dedication to detail was key for the team to receive the recognition deserved at the Oscars.
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